BTT03Route of the Fraga dos 3 Reinos

The boulder of the three kingdoms

This route crosses the high reaches of Montesinho and the memory of centuries of border life. It is not a loop with views towards Spain, but a traverse that climbs the Serra da Coroa, follows the boundary markers of the raia, and reaches the Fraga dos 3 Reinos — the boulder that in medieval times marked the vertex between Portugal, León, and Galicia, and which still today separates Portugal from the provinces of Zamora and Ourense.

The route covers 47.1 kilometres with approximately 1,300 metres of accumulated ascent, entirely within the Parque Natural de Montesinho. It is a red-graded, difficult route, intended for experienced riders with self-sufficiency.

Start and finish at the Parque Biológico

The route is circular and begins and ends at the entrance to the Parque Biológico de Vinhais. Travanca, at kilometre 4.6, with its Igreja de Travanca, fountain, and Capela de Santa Madalena, is the last village before the mountains.

The Serra da Coroa

Between kilometres 4.6 and 7.4, the path climbs continuously — around 300 metres — to the highest point of the day at 1,255 metres, on the massif of the Serra da Coroa, the roof of the municipality and territory of the Iberian wolf. In clear conditions, the view reaches into Spain. A long descent follows, dropping more than 300 metres to kilometre 12.

Carvalhas and the border

Carvalhas, at kilometre 13.0, has the Capela de Santa Marta and a café; at kilometre 14.4, the route reaches the old customs post, facing the Spanish village of Mazalvos. Where there was once rivalry and smuggling, there is today peaceful neighbourliness. From here the path winds between the markers that separate the two countries: one moment in Portugal, the next, around the bend, in Spain.

The Fraga dos 3 Reinos

At kilometre 18.4 lies the heart of the route — the Fraga dos 3 Reinos, a singular boulder that once marked the meeting point of three kingdoms. A long pause here is worthwhile before the descent to Moimenta.

Moimenta

Moimenta, at kilometre 21.3, is an Aldeia de Portugal and the most complete stop of the day: toilets, a fountain, the Taberna Ribeira d'Anta, the twin-towered Igreja de Moimenta, the forge and the communal oven of the Calvário, and the water mills of the Ribeira d'Anta, whose motive power first generated electricity for domestic use in the municipality of Vinhais. The Museu do Contrabando preserves the objects of a clandestine economy that only came to an end when both countries joined the European Community.

Montouto and Santa Cruz

Montouto, at kilometre 27.5, has a fountain and the Igreja de São Pedro. Between Montouto and Santa Cruz, the route descends to the lowest point of the day at 760 metres, at kilometre 37.7; Santa Cruz, at kilometre 36.9, with a fountain and mill, nestles against the Serra da Coroa.

Paçó, Prada, and the return

Paçó, at kilometre 41.3, has a café, a fountain, and the Pelourinho beside the church; Prada, at kilometre 44.3, is the last village, and from there to the Parque Biológico the final climb is gentle. Those who finish wanting more border country will find the Rota das Máscaras de Ousilhão e Vila Boa — also red-graded — starting from the same point.